When I was forty, with apologies to AA Milne, I had a birthday party at Mr Kong in Lisle Street. It was a good evening and two things I will always remember.
First, two of my cousins provided a surprise birthday cake iced, expertly, in the Bellew arms. Secondly, a university friend fell asleep in the soup. His neighbour on one side was outraged at his oafish behaviour. On the other side was another university friend; she enthused that it was just like the old days seeing him so drunk.
Alas, Mr Kong is no more. Rents, rates and all that jazz have forced that best of Chinese restaurants in Chinatown to the wall. I have been nursing this secret but now can recommend a worthy, although more expensive, successor.
Don’t take my word. Here are a couple of happy diners being ushered out by David Tang (looking like a ghost on the left) and, unlike me, they wrote a bread and butter ( shouldn’t that should be rice and rickshaw) letter.
The restaurant is Dumplings’ Legend and I recommend it for its dim sum, its very adventurous menu and its safer choice menu that even has sesame toast, so much loved by my late, great, friend Archie who patronised Good Earth in Knightsbridge.